Three VSF Factory GMT-Master II builds side by side

FACTORY AUTHENTICATION GUIDE

VSF Factory Guide

Serial numbers tell only part of the story. Here is how VSF Factory's batch codes work, how to check them against your watch, and what else separates a true top-tier build from a copy of a copy.

WHY THE CODES CHANGE

Serial numbers are not fixed.

Top factories like VSF rotate their serial number combinations by production batch and publish updated lists through their own channels. Compare a watch against an outdated list and you can easily mistake a genuine build for a fake, or the reverse.

If the codes never changed, anyone could copy a single known string and ride the reputation of a good batch. Updates also do not land for every series at once — a Datejust refresh and a Submariner refresh can be months apart.

Two GMT-Master II Pepsi builds compared on the wrist
LATEST BATCH REFERENCE

Serial Code Chart by Series

Compare directly, but remember that model and bracelet type must match exactly — the same code can legitimately appear on more than one reference.

Datejust Series

41mm Jubilee bracelet
ORVK6GP6EB1R
41mm Oyster bracelet
K6G7UL
36mm Jubilee bracelet
F6UP2KB5R
36mm Oyster bracelet
F6U

Day-Date

All current references
V8M3CRK3L4WR

Oyster Perpetual Series

36mm
U7T
41mm
989

Explorer Series

39mm
U7T
36mm
TL11

Air-King & Sea-Dweller

Air-King 40mm
UZ2
Sea-Dweller 43mm
7QE

GMT Series

Jubilee bracelet
A9A8CEB3GF6U
Oyster bracelet
1NQC7S6MW

Yacht-Master Series

White gold, rubber strap
W5T
40mm, rubber strap
2WP
40mm, Oyster bracelet
E4F2WPNOR

Submariner Series

41mm
SR8ST9E7YF80099

Milgauss Series

40mm
1JR

Daytona

4130 movement, steel bracelet
7CDV8SB0D2HDBJ2
4131 movement, steel bracelet
B1TRP9B3CQ8V5NXJ7NM5X
4130 movement, rubber strap
6LV
4131 movement, rubber strap
7CD

Note: codes can repeat across different references — F6U, for example, appears on the Datejust 36mm (Jubilee and Oyster) and on the GMT Jubilee. That overlap is normal in a factory's serial system, as long as the model and bracelet line up with the code.

STEP BY STEP

How to Verify a Serial Number

  1. 01

    Confirm where the serial number is engraved

    Engraving locations vary by series: the inner side of the clasp, the case flank between the lugs, or the rehaut. Use a macro lens or a high-magnification loupe rather than the naked eye — shallow engraving makes 8/B and 0/O easy to confuse.

  2. 02

    Match the watch model and bracelet type

    Confirm the series, case size, and bracelet (Jubilee, Oyster, or rubber) before comparing the code. All three must line up with the reference list exactly — a Datejust 41mm Jubilee code on a Submariner case is an immediate red flag.

  3. 03

    Check the serial number against the latest batch list

    Serial lists are refreshed per production run, and not every series updates on the same schedule. A code that is missing from the newest list is not automatically fake, but it warrants more evidence from the seller.

  4. 04

    Rule out franken or swapped-case builds

    A correct serial number only confirms the case and bracelet. Buyers comfortable opening a case back can check whether the movement finishing matches the stated factory and batch — serious channels support this inspection on request.

Clasp engraving showing code K6G
K6GDatejust 41mm, Jubilee & Oyster bracelet
Clasp engraving showing code U7T
U7TOyster Perpetual 36mm / Explorer 39mm
Clasp engraving showing code UZ2
UZ2Air-King 40mm
Clasp engraving showing code 1NQ
1NQGMT-Master II, Oyster bracelet
Clasp engraving showing code 2WP
2WPYacht-Master 40mm, rubber strap
Clasp engraving showing code 1JR
1JRMilgauss 40mm
Clasp engraving showing code M5X
M5XDaytona, 4131 movement, steel bracelet
Clasp engraving showing code F80
F80Submariner 41mm
THE FULL PICTURE

Beyond the Serial Number

A matching serial number is a quick filter, not a finish line — codes can be printed and engravings can be copied. Real authentication cross-checks several details at once.

01 // APPEARANCE

Surface Details

Dial font thickness, the color and curvature of the cyclops AR coating, and whether ceramic bezel markings are filled evenly and cleanly.

02 // MOVEMENT

Calibre Finishing

On a 4130 or 4131-based Daytona build, shock absorber shape, finishing patterns, and engraving style are the hardest details for a lesser factory to replicate in one pass.

03 // BRACELET

Clasp Craftsmanship

Beyond the engraving itself, check the brushing and polishing transitions on the clasp and the damping feel of the folding action.

VSF calibre 4131 movement compared with the genuine shock absorber design
A dedicated calibre 4131 build, down to the balance bridge and shock absorber geometry.
GMT-Master II Pepsi builds from four different factories compared side by side
The same reference across four factory tiers — case, bezel, and dial finishing side by side.
BEFORE YOU BUY

Five Checks That Avoid Scams

  • 01

    Ask for the current serial batch before buying — not a list from six months ago.

  • 02

    Request a close-up photo of the actual engraving on the exact watch you are purchasing.

  • 03

    For high-value pieces, negotiate a case-back opening to verify the movement directly.

  • 04

    Treat a correct serial number as a baseline, not a justification for inflated pricing.

  • 05

    Keep your own log of batch updates so outdated codes stop catching you out.

NEED A SECOND OPINION?

Send Us the Engraving. We'll Check It.

Share the reference, bracelet type, and a close-up photo of the serial number. Our team will confirm it against the current VSF batch list.